Trincomalee

The place

One of the world's finest natural harbours, watched over by Koneswaram Temple on the cliffs of Fort Frederick. Below the temple, the northeast coast unrolls into long pale beaches - Uppuveli close to town, Nilaveli further north, both far quieter than the south.

From Nilaveli, a short boat ride reaches Pigeon Island National Park, where reef sharks and turtles cruise the shallows over coral you can snorkel straight off the beach. May to September brings the calmest seas - the east's season, exactly when the southwest coast turns rough.